Big Bend National Park

Big Bend National Park - Texas

Departing Davis Mountains State Park after an extended stay due to  45 mph winds, we headed out to an originally unplanned part of our journey, Big Bend National Park. We watched anxiously over the weekend as the Government closed down and after calling the park, we were informed that yes! they were open and our reserved campsite awaited!! The drive here included refilling the propane tank as well as the RV fuel tank and 4 hours later, we passed unrestricted into the Park (no one on post due to the Government shutdown). Our campsite had our reservation on the post and so we backed into place, put the  levelers down, the slides out and setup camp for a four day stay. This place is absolutely gorgeous in a desolate, rugged way. A geology book our nephew Lance loaded us, stated the area natives legend claimed the area was formed with all the leftover elements after creation - this could quite possibly be true. Yes it is a desert - The Chilahuahuan to be precise, but it is not uniform in its 800,000 acre tract.

Part of the Chisos Mountains as you enter Big Bend National Park. The entire range is within the  1250 Sq miles of the park!

90 miles south of Marathon Texas, you come to  Rio Grande Village - RV camping. The mountains in the back ground are in Mexico!!

Having lost a day due to the windstorm, we immediately set out after setting up camp the explore the area. Rock cliffs, a natural hot springs, the Rio Grande, a border crossing into Mexico (more on that in a bit) Jeep trails and Roadrunners!! We checked them all and decided to visit the Hot Springs first thing the  next morning. It was awesome! Located in a stone foundation of a former resort right along the Rio Grande, you sit in 105 degree natural springs while gazing at the  mountains, river and desert. Even though the air temp was 35 degrees, after we were in there for half an hour, we didn't notice the air temp as we walked back to the Jeep to return to base.

Hot Springs right beside the Rio Grande. Delightful!!

That afternoon, we headed out for a 3 hour Jeep trail experience on the East River Road to Glenn Spring Road. About 3/4 of the way through, and  back miles and miles from anywhere, the check engine light came on in the Jeep. All gauges , Oil Pressure, Temp, Charging and Fuel were in the  desired ranges, so we felt comfortable enough that we would not be left to die in the desert, but still, bummer! We exited back onto the  hard road, drove back to the camp store (nearest town is 50 miles away) and asked about a auto service place . They recommended one in Terlingua and even placed a phone call to them. I spoke with the office person and she told be to be there first thing the next morning (by now it was 3:30PM). That night we did Laundry, took showers and caught up on email and the news. The next morning I was on the  road at 6:45 to be sure to be there when they opened. They put the jeep right in the service bay, put the  diagnostic computer on its, and by 9:30 I was headed back to base with a reset light and the diagnosis that it is a potential bad O2 sensor. 500 miles later , it still hasn't come back on.

several hundred miles of trails at BBNP

Old Ore Mine Trail - BBNP

ever changing rock landscape along trail

nice Jeep trail - Old Ore Mine BBNP

ah- Jeeping at last!

Each day, we would take small walks, and gaze at the  beauty of BBNP. The rock formations provide countless hours of exploration and the temperatures were very welcoming after teens and twenties in central Texas earlier in the month. Now we were in the sunshine and upper 60's!!!

raw beauty like this is all around you 

There is a canyon close by the campground, the Boquillas Canyon, where the Rio Grande carved thru the  rock leaving behind walls several hundred feet tall. You can walk for about 3/4 of a mile back in along the  Rio Grande to get a a view. While going back in , you would see a display of Mexican crafts (wire animals, walking sticks, etc) and a money can. We were told not to purchase these as they would be considered contraband as they did not come through customs!! While passing these by, we heard a very nice singing voice, and out of the  brush walks an older Mexican man, singing for a few  dollars. They are not pushy, and quietly slip away into the brush if you show no interest.  (we had seen them, but thought we had no chance of getting a picture) While back in there, we discovered that Roadrunners are not shy!

Mexican items for sale along hiking trail

info sign for Boquillas Canyon Hike

end of trail in Boquillas Canyon. I threw a stone across the Rio Grande from here!

Roadrunner - got within 3-4 ft of us

We checked out the crossing into Mexico and decided to venture over there for a lunch and look around. Since the day was a bit cloudy and Cooper and CJ would be OK back in the RV without the benefit of AC we hurried back and grabbed out passports and returned to the  Portal. This is an actual crossing portal, passports required. The portal was closed for over 10 years following 9/11 and just recently re-opened. The interesting/quaint thing is the Rio Grande is only about 30 yds wide and 4 ft deep at this point!  You get rowed across (unless you decide to walk across) and then either hop a Burro or walk the 1/2 mile up to the village of Boquillas (Bow - Key-yes).

this is the legal way to cross into Mexico in this area!

Portal sign as you head down to the Rio Grande

crossing the Border! - $5 for a round trip!

Burro ride into the village - also $5

Music with our meal!

We opted for the drier rowing option, as well as the Burro ride. At the village, we had a very nice cheese enchilada and Margarita lunch!. One Margareta was all you need!  The meal even came with  entertainment. Then we walked around the village with our "guide" who spoke no English, but did understand pretty much what we were asking him and he was able to  communicate in Spanish. The town has approx. 250 residents, a water system, a health clinic and several restaurants. The majority of income probably comes from the  rowing, guiding, and trinkets trades. Cindy bought bracelets for the grandkids, I bought a copper wire and bead Roadrunner. While the village was poor, it was clean looking

local wares for sale!

my purchase - a copper wire and bead Roadrunner!

A side note: our 1 week stay at Rio Grande Village Campground was what is referred to as dry camping, no hookups. We were running our lights and furnace blower off the  two large deep cycle batteries the RV has for such needs, but.... you need to be able to recharge the batteries. We had purchased a 200 Watt portable Solar system for exactly this scenario. I had tested them out back home in the driveway, but now we were getting a chance to try them out after transporting them across the continent for 5 months!! Thanks to Phil Theis, back in Pa for supplying the 30' long 10 gage wire to allow us to set the panels where ever needed!! The abundant sunshine and the 200 watt capacity did the trick and by sundown each day, we had a healthy charge and no problems. I was very pleased.

solar panels in action at BBNP

We took advantage of the great weather and nature's beauty. Each day we ventured into another part of the  800,000 acre park. One day was to the  western edge and a hike back Santa Elena Canyon, another a drive out of the  National Park and into the  adjoining, almost as large Texas State Park - Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Santa Elena Canyon - 1500 feet canyon walls!

Santa Elena Canyon

Heading up to Chisos Basin - lodge with good food and great views

scenic drive to Presido Texas through Bid Bend Ranch State Park

Cindy along Rio Grande - Big Bend Ranch State Park

These high water signs are quite common in the area - as rains can produce flash floods

BBNP, like so many of our National Parks, is hard to appreciate by simply viewing pictures! If you found this interesting, I highly suggest visiting there for a week, There are Cottages and rooms available at Chisos Basin and River rafting trips as well as numerous hiking opportunities to enjoy. As the Park Ranger said, this is a destination, not something you stop at on the way to somewhere. There is nothing for a hundred miles!!!


hope you enjoyed this - we are heading out of Texas now after almost 6 weeks here. We have enjoyed them all

Cooper and CJ