Back home and final thoughts

Back Home and final thoughts

we traveled to 37 states
Visited  27 national parks
26 state parks
historical sites
drove over 18000 miles in RV
drove over 18000 miles in Jeep
stayed at  70 sites
dry camped  46 nights
stayed at 8 WalMarts

map of our trip

things we observed

agencies are not consistent in their checking in, assigning passes
US National Forests are very nice campgrounds and quite affordable (recreation.gov)
all US National Parks are worth visiting
people everywhere are nice
this is a land of great beauty and ever changing landscapes
local food is great
planning is useful but be flexible
talking to fellow campers and locals is fun, interesting and informative
hidden gems sometimes are best
a check list for departure is necessary
keep daily drives to 300 miles or less if possible

take care Cooper and CJ

Minnesota, Wisconson, Michigan and Ohio

Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan and Ohio 

We had a fairly long drive to our next stop and there was no time to waste. Getting back on I 94 we passed through Fargo and shortly thereafter into Minnesota. We passed through small towns, past some of the numerous lakes the state is known for and arrived at suppertime at Big Sandy Lake Recreation Area. This stop for the night was another Army Corps of Engineers project near the headwaters of the Mississippi River! Again a very nice place to hang out. Built on a site that at one time in the 1700's saw a fur trading post and native American tragedy.

site 2 - Big Sandy Recreation Area Minnesota

water heading for the beginning of the Mississippi!!

CJ enjoying the drive

Again we had a short stay, pulling in at supper time and we were on the road again shortly after 7AM the next day. We needed to cross Wisconsin and get to Bay Furnace National Forest Campground by the next night. To do so, we had 370 miles to get in. A fair drive in a car, but pushing the limits for a motorhome. We try to keep our daily drives to 300 miles or less and this was our last drive to exceed that limit.

crossing into Wisconsin at Duluth

Bay Furnace is a great place. Yes, it is dry camping, but you are right on the shores of Lake Superior at the site of a 1870's iron furnace with a beautiful beach and nice campsites. If you are lucky enough to book sites 8, 10 or 12, you'll be right along the water's edge. The small town of Munising is just 3 miles to the East. The Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore  is available for viewing by booking passage on the  tour boats. As we had seen the similar Flower Pots back in the Fall at Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia, we choose to pass on boating to see the rocks. If you are in the area, and have a hankering, they were extremely popular.

remains of the blast furnace at Bay Furnace 

On our way back to the campground from Munising, we did a quick stop to get some Pasties. There are places all over the Upper Peninsula advertising Pasties (had to stop in to check out what they are). Turns out they are pastry pockets filled with meat, veggies or pie filling. I chose the apple filling. It was very tasty.   Cindy tried her hand at the Casino and in a short time was separated from her $20!

Munising Lighthouse on Lake Superior

downtown Munising

Indian Casino across from Bay Furnace, Christmas MI

We had only planned on the one day to be in this area and by 8 AM the next day we were once again packing up. We stopped at the dump station, then filled the water tanks and headed East. We were heading for the center of Michigan on our homeward trek. Along the way we passed Lake Michigan, crossed the Mackinac Bridge and pulled into a KOA near Flint.

Mackinac Bridge - Lakes Huron to the left, Michigan to the right 

regional offering - Pasties - we tried apple!

Lake  Michigan shore

There was not to be any sight seeing this night and we settled in at camp, grabbed some WiFi and called it a day. The next morning we didn't have to rush, but we did need to get past Detroit and then Toledo before suppertime. Along the way, we had a near miss on US 25 when a trailer lost its' fender and we had no choice but to run over it!! We pulled over at the next gas station and closely examined the tires. NO DAMAGE!! This was not a place to have to pull over with its' narrow shoulders and heavy traffic.

Lake Erie at Oregon , Ohio

Welcome to Ohio -thanks!

We made it to our last State Park - Maumee Bay. Very nice, quite large with almost a country club feel. Not a wilderness feel, but well maintained and right on Lake Erie. I traveled to the library in nearby by Oregon to catch up on this blog ( three locations needed completion) and we went for walks and over to see Lake Eric. I have now seen all 5 Great Lakes!

We stayed two days at Maumee Bay and off towards PA!. On the way we stopped at Cuyahoga Valley National Park, just below Cleveland. Centered on the days of canals in the 1830's, CVNP is a nice stop for a few hours and if you are so inclined, bring your bike and cruise the tow path!

Canal Boats and biking paths - CVNP

one of the original canal locks - 175 yrs old

what a welcome - traffic jam 

  We had 75 more miles to go and hit Pennsylvania. We did that with no problem on I 80.
Then, the traffic jam hit. It took us 1.5 hrs to go 12 miles!! But we did, and by 5PM we were pulled into the Mercer KOA. Our last night on the road after 11 months!!

our last campsite - Mercer KOA

The next morning, Friday, We were up, coffeed and on the road by 8AM and after some rainy spots on I 80 and 322, we arrived back home shortly after 2PM!!! Some of the family were there to greet us and Cooper and CJ were glad to get their yard and house back.

Welcoming committee

Thanks so much for following and for those of you thinking about making a trip like this...ENJOY!!

There will be one more post to this blog, a listing of our stats, observations and opinions.

take care

Cooper and CJ

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Mandan site and North Dakota

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Knife River Indian Villages and Lewis and Clark

The drive to our next location was basically due North, but the best route per Garmi the GPS was more of a loop! Either way, we made the drive through western South and North Dakotas and by late afternoon were on I 94 heading West to Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  You enter the Park while on I 94, a bit different than many entrances. Off a ramp and up to the adjacent parking lot and there is a Visitor  Center and a panoramic view of what drew TR to the area - the badlands of western North Dakota. TR had come here to recover from the loss of his wife and mother on the same day in the 1880's! He ranched the area for a while then eventually returned to the East. This is worth the trip!

Theodore Roosevelt National Park - badlands

After taking in the beauty of the South vista, we continued on westward on  I 94 to the town of Medora and the main entrance to the Park. We had a reservation at Cottonwood Campground 6 miles inside the park along the Little Missouri River.  Our site for the next two nights was a pull through and quite nice. The campground was full the entire time and offers only dry camping. We were prepared with full water tanks, empty waste tanks and ample propane if needed. After settling in, I took Cooper and CJ for a walk around the campground loop and then we took off in the Jeep to see the Park via the 30 mile loop. As we were leaving the immediate area of the campground, we got to see a large Bison rolling on its back in the dirt! Then we continued on as the sun set on a harsh, but striking and beautiful landscape.

2000 lbs, 6 ft at the shoulder!!

 Upon returning to camp near sunset, I again took Cooper and CJ for a loop around the campground. As we were rounding a small bend on the far side, away from our site, the family camping there quickly motioned us in their direction. Here, only 10 yds or so to the other side, was a large Bison Bull!!! They may look cuddly, but they can be extremely aggressive! We moseyed behind their camper and along to our site without confrontation. Shortly after that, I walked to the amphitheater to hear a Ranger program on the  History of TRNP from a Geologic/Paleontological perspective. Most interesting! T-Rex roamed there, as did Giant Squid and Wooly Mammoths. Glaciers did not reach the area, but did to the East and at times, the area was under water similar to the Caribbean! Ranger talks are awesome! Walking back in the dark with my headlamp on, I kept a sharp watch for that Bison. Apparently it had moved on.

TRNP is a bit different in that it is comprised of  two sections or units 50 miles apart. The next morning, by 8AM, we were at the main Visitor Center in Medora where we watched the film, looked at the museum and TR's first home in the area - Maltese Cross Ranch. The House has been relocated to just behind the Visitor Center from 8 miles away. Cool to be where TR lived.

original log ranch house of TR! - cool

Then, it was in the Jeep and East on I 94 to US 85 and 50 miles to the North Unit of TRNP. Just before we got there, a passing semi lost something that ended up busting our windshield ( I will soon be on a first name basis with Safe-Lite). We found phone coverage, called in a claim and will be getting it repaired/replaced in Ephrata after we return home.

don't know if the magic windshield goo will work here!!

The North unit of the park offers a nice drive back in through the badlands and takes about 1 hour to traverse. Along the way is a wonderful observation point with a neat stone pavilion.

the rock is quite soft and changes constantly

ever changing due to erosion

This was our last day in the area and there was one more thing to see. Back to the North of Medora (yup 80 miles the other way) is the site of TR's more famous Elkhorn Ranch. It is 30 miles of decent dirt road and although the structures are long gone, going to the site is beautiful and rewarding. Along the way we saw a small herd of Pronghorn and a few deer. We made the drive without incident, hiked back the 3/4 of a mile to where his ranch house stood and understood why he loved the area so much. Sitting near the Little Missouri River with views of the Badland from his porch, he must have welcomed its' solitude.

this is site of  Elkhorn Ranch - tranquil

We drove back to Medora and stopped for dinner at dog friendly - Boots Bar and Grill. I wanted to get a Bison Burger while in the area and Cindy opted for the Walleye Fish and chips! Quite tasty and they brought Cooper and CJ water bowls while we enjoyed our meals! Back at camp, I again took in a Ranger talk. This one was on Elk and how they are managed in the Park. Nicely done!

making adjustment to hood latch on RV!

Our stay at TRNP was much enjoyed (shattered windshield aside) and definitely worth the trip. Again, make sure your get your site reserved as they were filled up the entire time we were there. 3 nights would be advised as we were pushing a bit to get everything in.

We left early the next morning , hopped on I 94 East, stopping at US 85 to fill up the RV. Then back on I 94 and we headed to the next hidden gem - Knife River Indian Village NHS!! about 30 minutes to the North of I 94, towards Bismark, sits this great museum. Sitting in the area of the Mandan and Hidatsa peoples, the site had a full size earthen lodge (furnished), a film on Buffalo Bird Woman who lived there and great artifacts. Cindy and I got to try on a Bison Robe!!! Way Cool. Go there!!!

inside earthen lodge at Knife River NHS

Our stay there only took an hour and soon we were heading to our last Lewis and Clark site, the Mandan Village where they spent their first Winter. There is a nice interpretive center and down the road a piece, a replica of Fort Mandan where they spent the 6 months.

Fort Mandan replica - Lewis and Clark built about 8 miles away in 1804

this would definitely keep you warm!!

living quarters in Fort Mandan - some of party were carpenters and masons!

Then back on I 94 east to just west of Fargo where we were to spend a night at a US Army Corps of Engineers Project - Mel Riemen Rec Area. Nice, quiet and affordable. Situated near Valley City ND, Mel Riemen is on a lake that caters to fisherman and boaters while meeting irrigation and floor control needs.

We are back on the road again, heading East.

Until next time, take Care


Cooper and CJ

Wind Caves NP, Custer and Mammoth Site , South Dakota

Wind Caves National Park , Custer and Mammoth Site South Dakota

 Leaving Rocky Mountain National Park early Monday morning, we drove back East, out through the foothills to I 25 and headed North. We had 300 miles to go through Colorado, into Wyoming, past Cheyenne and then East into South Dakota to just outside Custer, SD and Commanche Park Campground in the National Forest. We had booked two nights in the NF to use as a base to explore the area and specifically Wind Caves National Park.

First, we had to get the RV into the site. We made it, but again I was glad Winnie is 32 ft and no longer. Cindy provided direction to avoid crunching things on the sizable rocks bordering the site as well as the large Ponderosa Pines standing guard. But, we did get in place and got setup in a beautiful location.

one of our favorite sites - Commanche Park National Forest SD

After dinner, I took Cooper and CJ for a walk around the campground (about 1/2 mile loop) and met a nice young family from Vermont. They were seeing the area in a truck camper and able to really take advantage of the camping opportunities a rig like that can offer. Their 4yr old daughter was very interested in talking to Cooper and CJ!

That night we drove in to the town of Custer, cruised the main street and saw that they have a fiberglass Bison thing going on! Painted quite creatively. the 1/4 scale Bison were placed along the main street and probably numbered 10 or more. Boyertown, PA has a similar motif with Bears.

fiberglass Bison - pretty cool

Then, I just had to stop at a local establishment for a piece of apple pie. (always looking for the best piece of apple pie). It was good and the coffee washed it down nicely. While there I noticed that one  of the Harley Davidsons  in the parking area had PA plates on it! Then back to camp and settle in for the night.

eye catching eatery in Custer SD - good apple pie

The next morning we were out by 7:30 AM and heading down to Wind Caves National Park. This is one of the oldest National Parks and quite interesting. On the surface, you see the rolling Plains with Bison, Pronghorn, Deer and Prairie Dogs. However, starting at the Visitor Center, you can take a guided tour into caverns, 200 ft beneath the surface, that even to today have only been minimally explored. The tour was interesting and the Box Work on the ceilings is quite cool. The tour takes about 1 1/2 hours and is not difficult.  With the bright sun and minimal shade, Cindy and I took separate tours so the dogs could be looked after. I took Cooper and CJ for a hike near the Visitor Center while Cindy took her tour. Then we switched.

inside Wind Caves NP

After completing our tours, we drove through more of the Park and then headed down to the town of Hot Springs. Known for the natural hot springs in the area, the town was once a spa destination. Today it is more of a tourist stop while people are in the area to see Mount Rushmore (nearby) and the National Park. We did stop at a nice dog friendly café and enjoyed a tasty panni (ham and cheese for me, turkey and cheddar for Cindy).  Then, one of those little known gems surfaced. I had seen a dot on the atlas named Mammoth Site. I thought, Ok someone found a mammoth and there is a maker or some fossilized remains. WOW!!! What you have is a mound, the approximate dimension of a basketball court, that when a bulldozer went to level it off back in the 1970's, discovered a ancient sink hole full of Mammoth bones!!! So far, after only uncovering approx. 1/3 of the depth, they have found 60+ Mammoths!!!!! WAY, way cool. Stop there if you get in the area, an hour very well spent.

Mammoth bones! - lots and lots of them!!

The Afternoon sun was intense and we stopped at DQ for their version of a slushy, then a quick stop at the local library to update our devices on their WiFi and we were heading back to camp.

This was a nice visit and we saw some cool stuff. We had seen Mount Rushmore on a previous trip, so we did not venture over that way. If you are interested, three to four nights in the area would allow you to see it all! (Sturgis and Deadwood are also nearby).

pleasant country

We packed up early the next morning, squeaked out of our campsite and were headed northward by 8AM. More to see and experience!

until then take care!


Cooper and CJ

Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Rocky Mountain National Park


After leaving southern Colorado and Great Sand Dunes National Park, we travelled eastward and merged onto I 25 North - destination Estes Park, Colorado and Rocky Mountain National Park.  We had a site reserved at Glacier Basin Campground in the eastern portion of the Park. We made a directional mistake in Estes Park and wound up taking a more scenic drive to the campground, but we got there and after checking in at the Ranger Station, we set up our home for the next three days in a breathtaking mountain meadow.  Directly across from our site, unencumbered by other campsites, we could view several glaciers amid bare rock peaks towering over 10,000 feet.

view from Trail Ridge Road - RMNP

Our first morning at RMNP, we set out to travel to the western side of the Park. There are very few roads in the Park and only two that take you via the North side (both of which merge half way through). The road we chose that day was Trail Ridge Road. Trail Ridge Road winds it way up through the mountains and at its' peak, breaks out above the tree line and presents views of the alpine tundra from 12,183 ft! It is a twisty, steep climb and descent, but nicely paved road the entire way to the western corner of the Park. We enjoyed the drive, paused at the Alpine Visitor Center at the apex of the drive and wound down to Grand Lake.

Elk herd near Alpine Visitor Center along Trail ridge Road

 On our way, just North of the Kawuneeche Visitor Center, we pulled over to enjoy Moose watching! Across the meadow, about 100yds distant, was a mother Moose and two calves! Great fun!

Moose and calf in trees RMNP (center of frame)

Later, down at the Visitor's Center, we shared our Moose viewing with one of the Rangers who was glad to have the info. While chatting with the Ranger, I mentioned my surprise at there was not a classic lodge in a National Park. She informed me that there was,  just a mile or so down the road. Now outside the Park boundary. Grand Lake Lodge is a classic place with a fabulous front porch. Down the road we went and after talking with the staff at the lodge, were permitted to partake of a nice breakfast buffet on the front porch with Cooper and CJ lying beneath our log furniture seats! A view of the lake, quaking Aspens close by and a hummingbird added to the experience. Very nice.

view from Grand Lake Lodge RMNP

The drive back to Glacier Basin Campground took half the afternoon and as we passed the Alpine Visitor Center, we were glad we had stopped in the morning. The parking lot was packed, with traffic backed up over a 1/4 mile trying to get a parking space. Rocky Mountain NP is very popular and we were at the height of tourist season. The Park gets busy very quickly. Best to get up and get going to the things you want to see as they can become closed off til enough people leave to free up space for more visitors.

Alpine views RMNP

That afternoon, we took our lounge chairs across the driveway from our site and sat in the shade, read books and enjoyed to view. Not too hard take! The campground was full the entire time we were there, including the group sites. Large numbers of teenage hikers, families and some of us older folk were all taking in the beauty of RMNP. Again, as stated in earlier posts, some of the places get busy very quickly and reservations are advisable (recreation.gov).

view from our site! we set our chairs under those trees!

Our final day in RMNP was to be filled with several things. First, not far from Glacier Basin Campground is Bear Lake, a nice, level 1/2 mile loop around the lake. Pets are not allowed, so I stayed back at the parking lot with Cooper and CJ while Cindy hiked the loop.

Bear Lake - RMNP

Then we continued farther into the Park and picked up Old Fall River Road. This is the original road built in the early 1900's for motor traffic to the climb along the old Indian trail into the top of the Park. Today it s a one way drive, on dirt and gravel for 9 miles finishing at the Alpine Visitor Center. Beautiful, steep at times with numerous switchbacks and quite fun (there were Honda Civics driving it).

starting up Old Fall River Road - 9 miles to go!

After completing our drive, we exited the Park and drove into Estes Park and the Public Library. I needed some good WiFi and had several blog issues to finalize and publish. We spent about an hour and a half there and managed to escape the serious tourist congestion to return to our RV.

Early the next morning we were hooking up the Jeep, pulling in the slides and heading down the road towards our next destination. Rocky Mountain National Park is GREAT! If you are thinking of visiting there plan on 3 days, get out early to what you want to see and enjoy!!


until then, take care!


Cooper and CJ