Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Mandan site and North Dakota

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Knife River Indian Villages and Lewis and Clark

The drive to our next location was basically due North, but the best route per Garmi the GPS was more of a loop! Either way, we made the drive through western South and North Dakotas and by late afternoon were on I 94 heading West to Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  You enter the Park while on I 94, a bit different than many entrances. Off a ramp and up to the adjacent parking lot and there is a Visitor  Center and a panoramic view of what drew TR to the area - the badlands of western North Dakota. TR had come here to recover from the loss of his wife and mother on the same day in the 1880's! He ranched the area for a while then eventually returned to the East. This is worth the trip!

Theodore Roosevelt National Park - badlands

After taking in the beauty of the South vista, we continued on westward on  I 94 to the town of Medora and the main entrance to the Park. We had a reservation at Cottonwood Campground 6 miles inside the park along the Little Missouri River.  Our site for the next two nights was a pull through and quite nice. The campground was full the entire time and offers only dry camping. We were prepared with full water tanks, empty waste tanks and ample propane if needed. After settling in, I took Cooper and CJ for a walk around the campground loop and then we took off in the Jeep to see the Park via the 30 mile loop. As we were leaving the immediate area of the campground, we got to see a large Bison rolling on its back in the dirt! Then we continued on as the sun set on a harsh, but striking and beautiful landscape.

2000 lbs, 6 ft at the shoulder!!

 Upon returning to camp near sunset, I again took Cooper and CJ for a loop around the campground. As we were rounding a small bend on the far side, away from our site, the family camping there quickly motioned us in their direction. Here, only 10 yds or so to the other side, was a large Bison Bull!!! They may look cuddly, but they can be extremely aggressive! We moseyed behind their camper and along to our site without confrontation. Shortly after that, I walked to the amphitheater to hear a Ranger program on the  History of TRNP from a Geologic/Paleontological perspective. Most interesting! T-Rex roamed there, as did Giant Squid and Wooly Mammoths. Glaciers did not reach the area, but did to the East and at times, the area was under water similar to the Caribbean! Ranger talks are awesome! Walking back in the dark with my headlamp on, I kept a sharp watch for that Bison. Apparently it had moved on.

TRNP is a bit different in that it is comprised of  two sections or units 50 miles apart. The next morning, by 8AM, we were at the main Visitor Center in Medora where we watched the film, looked at the museum and TR's first home in the area - Maltese Cross Ranch. The House has been relocated to just behind the Visitor Center from 8 miles away. Cool to be where TR lived.

original log ranch house of TR! - cool

Then, it was in the Jeep and East on I 94 to US 85 and 50 miles to the North Unit of TRNP. Just before we got there, a passing semi lost something that ended up busting our windshield ( I will soon be on a first name basis with Safe-Lite). We found phone coverage, called in a claim and will be getting it repaired/replaced in Ephrata after we return home.

don't know if the magic windshield goo will work here!!

The North unit of the park offers a nice drive back in through the badlands and takes about 1 hour to traverse. Along the way is a wonderful observation point with a neat stone pavilion.

the rock is quite soft and changes constantly

ever changing due to erosion

This was our last day in the area and there was one more thing to see. Back to the North of Medora (yup 80 miles the other way) is the site of TR's more famous Elkhorn Ranch. It is 30 miles of decent dirt road and although the structures are long gone, going to the site is beautiful and rewarding. Along the way we saw a small herd of Pronghorn and a few deer. We made the drive without incident, hiked back the 3/4 of a mile to where his ranch house stood and understood why he loved the area so much. Sitting near the Little Missouri River with views of the Badland from his porch, he must have welcomed its' solitude.

this is site of  Elkhorn Ranch - tranquil

We drove back to Medora and stopped for dinner at dog friendly - Boots Bar and Grill. I wanted to get a Bison Burger while in the area and Cindy opted for the Walleye Fish and chips! Quite tasty and they brought Cooper and CJ water bowls while we enjoyed our meals! Back at camp, I again took in a Ranger talk. This one was on Elk and how they are managed in the Park. Nicely done!

making adjustment to hood latch on RV!

Our stay at TRNP was much enjoyed (shattered windshield aside) and definitely worth the trip. Again, make sure your get your site reserved as they were filled up the entire time we were there. 3 nights would be advised as we were pushing a bit to get everything in.

We left early the next morning , hopped on I 94 East, stopping at US 85 to fill up the RV. Then back on I 94 and we headed to the next hidden gem - Knife River Indian Village NHS!! about 30 minutes to the North of I 94, towards Bismark, sits this great museum. Sitting in the area of the Mandan and Hidatsa peoples, the site had a full size earthen lodge (furnished), a film on Buffalo Bird Woman who lived there and great artifacts. Cindy and I got to try on a Bison Robe!!! Way Cool. Go there!!!

inside earthen lodge at Knife River NHS

Our stay there only took an hour and soon we were heading to our last Lewis and Clark site, the Mandan Village where they spent their first Winter. There is a nice interpretive center and down the road a piece, a replica of Fort Mandan where they spent the 6 months.

Fort Mandan replica - Lewis and Clark built about 8 miles away in 1804

this would definitely keep you warm!!

living quarters in Fort Mandan - some of party were carpenters and masons!

Then back on I 94 east to just west of Fargo where we were to spend a night at a US Army Corps of Engineers Project - Mel Riemen Rec Area. Nice, quiet and affordable. Situated near Valley City ND, Mel Riemen is on a lake that caters to fisherman and boaters while meeting irrigation and floor control needs.

We are back on the road again, heading East.

Until next time, take Care


Cooper and CJ