Rocky Mountain National Park

Estes Park Colorado- Rocky Mountain National Park

After leaving western Nebraska on US 6, we continued on through Greely,  Colorado and picked up US 34. This is a scenic, if winding way, to climb up to 8200 ft , via a narrow gorge, to Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. Our 32 ft RV with Jeep in tow, had no issues in making the trek and we were able to oblige those following us by using the numerous pullouts to let them pass by. Very Beautiful! A note of caution: you are at high altitudes throughout the Park and Altitude Sickness is a possibility. Also, while there, we experienced 19% humidity. Drink plenty of fluids!

starting into gorge on US34!

twisty but not scary - worth the drive

our site from the bank behind

not too big - Winnie fit right in

room with a view

view from our site!

Campground was full, including this beast!

We had visited RMNP on our big trip in mid July, 2018. During that visit we had camped at Glacier Basin Campground for 3 days. This afforded a beautiful of the mountain range, but beetles had killed off all the pines and had been removed leaving a very large open area. This time we stayed at Moraine Park Campground, site B188 for 5 dyas. We entered the Park at Beaver Meadows and proceded to the campground and our site. The campground is comprised of several loops, some tent only and some mixed. Ours was mixed and site B188 afforded us a magnificent view of the Rockies and were nestled in some nice tall Ponderosa Pines, combined with being almost perfectly level and right across from the drinking water and vault toilets. We could view the mountains from inside or outside and did so for many hours. The entire area is also know for its' large groves of Aspen. We were arriving at what we hoped would be a prime leaf views time not only at RMNP, but at several of our following destinations.

This Magpie liked my Jeep

not shy - Magpies come very close

Aspen turn Golden Yellow and cover large areas

CJ kickin' back at RMNP

We quickly setup, CJ occupied his outdoor bed and Cindy sat to take in the beautiful views and listen to Elk bugling nearby! RMNP is home to a large Elk population in addition to Mule Deer, Black Bear, Mountain Lions, Big Horn Sheep, Wild Turkeys and other critters. The Rut is on! Elk Bugling morning noon and night and large groups of visitors line the road sides to watch. After Dinner, we hopped in Jeep  (which was absolutely filthy from days of being towed, through several rainstorms) and headed towards town and a car wash. First though, we swung down the first turnoff to a large mountain meadow and numerous Elk, including several impressive Bulls. We like Moose, but Elk are my personal favorite. i think they are quite majestic, even if their bugling is a bit mismatched to their appearance. Jeep got a fairly decent washing and was much more presentable. We arrived back at camp just before sunset and I was able to take CJ on a walk around our loop before darkness set in.  

this Bull had a Harem of over 20 Cows

Impressive!

Our weather since arriving at RMNP has been sunny, daytime temps between 60 and 75 degrees and very low humidity. The constant breezes combined with the low humidity allow you to be quite comfortable while in the shade (no AC here as there are not any electric hookups.). This was making a very pleasant outdoor experience. I had been composing the first BLOG post for this trip and needed to get to town and the library to grab WiFi to wrap it up and insert the pics (these get emailed to me and then accessed through our Windows laptop - blogspot is not too happy with Apple iPads. Cindy went in first to update the budget and CJ and I lounged on the bench outside in the sunshine. then my turn came and we swapped placed. I got the typing transferred but the pics were causing issues. (it has been a years since I blogged). I had already been at it for an hour and a hlf and it was past my noon day feeding, so I saved where I was at and we left for camp. Lunch and sitting outside the remainder of the afternoon occasionally looking at the 10000+ ft mountains was combined with reading and walking CJ. Listening to Elk bugle nearby is a definite plus. The Elk continued on through out the evening and into the night.

The next morning was a repeat effort of going to the Library. This time I was successful in getting the pictures loaded and inserted in the blog. I hit the published button and then Cindy, CJ and I checked out downtown Estes Park. We had been here last year, even used the Library, but we stayed away from the shops as it was peak tourist season and the sidewalks and streets were jam packed. This time was different and we casually strolled the main street, checking out the stores and resisting to go into the taffy and candy shops. ( not an easy task). Then back to the Library, hop in the Jeep and head back to camp (grabbing some groceries on the way). 

shops of all kinds in Esges PArk

Evenings cool down rapidly, and the first two nights we turned on the propane furnace and set a temp of 64 degrees. It kicked in numerous times throughout the night.

We had decided to drive over the ridge tops on Trail Ridge Road (US 34), climbing above the tree line into the Arctic Tundra area of the park and then  westward and then once outside the Park at Grand View, turn North to try to see Moose.  This consumed the day and while we did not see moose, we did see some more beautiful scenery and even stopped at Steamboat Springs, the renowned ski resort town by lunchtime. Cindy researched places to meet and we decided on Backdoor Grill. It offered outdoor dining, pet friendly, beer and great burgers made from local beef! We both felt this was on of the best burgers we ever had eaten (CJ enjoyed his pieces as well). Time then to start for home as I was not wanting to have to cross back of the ridge in the days. Quite heads-up driving as it is in the day time. We arrived back at camp shortly after 5 pm. A day well spent.

great scenery on the way to Steamboat Springs

Aspen starting to turn

One of the best burgers we've ever had!!- Back Door Grill Steamboat Springs

Ridge Trail Road - built in the 1920's

up in the Alpine tundra on Ridge Road

came up this road!

Saturday morning we were out the door shortly after 7 am and heading to Sprague Lake in hopes of seeing Moose. No Moose, no Squirrel, but picturesque all the same. There were several Elk in the lake and the walk around the lake is very nice. By now we had seen well over a hundred Elk and the still impress you. Their bugling in our area has quieted down some what but they are around the area. After walking Sprague Lake, we continued on to Bear Lake, one of the most popular sites in the Park. When we arrived, around 8:30 of so, the parking lot was at capacity and we were instructed to drive through once in hopes of getting a space and moving on if we didn't. We didn't. This area is quite best accessed by catching the in park shuttle. There are others areas to see that we hadn't caught last time, so we continued on to Lily Lake. Just a few miles outside the park gates, but part of the RMNP, Lily lake affords great scenery and a nice half mile, level walk with numerous benched to sit and take in the views. No pets allowed on the walk, so Cindy and CJ sat in the Jeep and I took a hike. very nice and highly recommended. We heeded back to the Park, stopping at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, where I watched the film on the Park (  always a good, well done choice) then onward toward the entrance. The traffic entering the Park was backed up for perhaps half a mile and it took us 10-15 minutes till be got to where the lanes fanned out and we could go in the speedy lane for Passholders. We highly advise arriving at any of the National Parks as early in the morning as possible!  Later on we met two unrelated people who originally came from York, Pa. In addition, the Waman in the site next to use has a friend who lives in Reading, Pa! It's a small world we live in.

Elk in Sprague Lake, RMNP

this meadow was near our campsite- bugling abounds!

RMNP is also home to Mule Deer

The Park was full and our campground loop was quite active with groups, families, singles and retirees enjoying the great outdoors! CJ got his evening walk and as the day had been quite warm, we opted to not turn on the furnace . It was great sleeping temps, but we awoke to 52 degrees in the RV. A bit nippy. At 6 am the furnace was on the coffee was being consumed! 

Out time here has come to a close and we'll be packing up shortly to get ready to move on to our next site. 

RMNP is well worth visiting and the last time we were here we didn't stay long enough. Five days is what I would recommend. Six or more if you are going to do kayaking, horse rides or long hikes. Do the drives, walk the lakes, get to the wild life areas (the Rangers can help with those) and be prepared to get up early and get out there before the day visitors arrive! Estes Park is very touristy and has numerous shops, restaurants and all kinds of tours - Jeeps rides, rafting, horse back rides, fly fishing, etc. Be sure to book way in advance on Recreation.gov. There is a rolling 6 month window. We were a bit too early at September 15 for the Aspen leaves, but they will be here soon!

not too hard to take

take care and enjoy

CJ

CJ sees more of America 2019

We started heading West on I80 and stayed for a night at the Walmart in Grove City, Pa. After checking with the staff, we parked our rig and Cindy walked next door to get our dinner - TACO Bell! Yummy! Later we went into Walmart and purchased some supplies and as the temps had dropped nicely after sunset, we enjoyed a restful night sleep.

CJ's favorite position while parked!

 In the morning, with a clean windshield (a good thing for a pleasant drive) we headed back out to the highway and Ohio. The original plan was to stay over a the Walmart in Richmond, Indiana. We would be arriving there mid afternoon on a hot, sunny day and would have to run the generator to have AC (RVs get pretty toasty in the  sun without AC). As we traveled, Cindy did some more research and with the I76 drive going smoothly, we settled on proceeding past Indianapolis to Lieber State Rec Area. We were very pleased with our choice. Only a few miles off exit 37 on I70, this is a very nice natural area with electric and a shower house, along with hiking, boating and some historical attractions.  Not a lot of sites for larger rigs, but there are some. This would be a great place for families to camp. Nature Center programs, playground and lots of paths for biking.

nice and secluded at Lieber Rec Area

a nice walk to the  Nature Center at Lieber Rec Area

We departed Lieber Rec Area after a leisurely morning, complete with a long walk, sitting outside while reading and enjoying a second cup of coffee. By noon, we were packed up, slides pulled and tanks dumped.  Heading back out to I70 West and Hannibal, Missouri, hometown of Samuel Langhorne Clemens aka Mark Twain! We had two nights booked at Mark Twain Cave Campground and that would allow our time to tour the historic portion of town and Mark Twain's Cave. We checked in after filling the RV with gas at Pilot just outside Hannibal ($2.15/gal!!!!!). Our site was small, but we weren't there for the surroundings. We want to see the sites, grab some utilities and kick back for two days.

Burr Oak at Mark Twain Cave

crossing the Mississippi above St Louis

This campground is just South of Hannibal on Rt 79. Saturday morning (after doing a load of laundry at 7AM) an  walking CJ, Cindy and I headed into town There are numerous points of interest relating to Sam Clemens. We started at the Mark Twain Museum - a great place complete with a River Boat Pilot House, video clips form movies made of Mark Twain's stories, and many personal artifacts - watches, hats, suits, etc.

inside Mark Twain Museum Hannibal - replica Riverboat Pilot house - Sam Clemens knew these well

LEGO Mark Twain

Our admission combo also gained us admission to Sam's boyhood home, his fathers Justice of the Peace office, Becky Thatcher's house (just across the street) and the home of the real Huckleberry Finn - Tom Blankenship.

Becky Thatcher's House across the street from Sam Clemens's

Huck Finn's / Tom Blankenship's home

just a block from the Mississippi - Sam Clemens boyhood home

We continued our walk through the historic section and made our way over to the Mississippi River and the replica riverboat "Mark Twain" (Sam Clemens piloted several of the real ones while in his early 20's in the years just prior to the Civil War). Daily rides are available as is a dinner cruise. Hannibal is also the hometown of Molly Brown - of Titanic fame.

"Mark Twain" - take a cruise on the Mississippi!

It was now early afternoon and time to return to the RV to walk CJ and grab some lunch at the annual Rib and Wings Fest fundraiser for the local free clinic. This was taking place on the grounds, just next to the campground. The $15 admission fee gained you entrance and there were about a dozen tents offering  ribs, wings and potatoes. We sampled several vendors and Cindy preferred the last tent in the line ad did I. this was a  nicely attended local event and we were very glad we went. A nice way to see America!

Rib and Wing Festival Hannibal MO - yummy!

After an hours break back at the RV, we walked back over to take the tour of the Mark Twain Cave.  A National Natural Landmark. This is the same cave Mark Twin wrote about in several of his novels and the one the young Sam Clemens often  played in as a boy.  Way cool (literally).

inside Mark Twain's Cave

no more names after National Landmark in 1972!

The next day we were once again packed up and out on the road. This time heading West on US 36, an almost straight shot from Indianapolis to Denver and close to an Interstate road in size and speed without any traffic. You get to cruise for long periods but still get to see the towns that make up this country.  By late afternoon, we were at our overnight stop, the FREE RV camping in the Marysville, Kansas City Park. Complete with 50 amp hookups. Did I mention it was free?? A beautiful, well maintained park complete with 9 hole disc golf, a large playground, swimming pool, a giant water slide, tennis courts and Black Squirrels. Marysville has quite a tradition going back over 100 years with the black furry critters and there are numerous giant, brightly painted fiberglass squirrels around town.

one of several FREE RV site in Marysville Park - you can stay 5 nights!

one of several fiberglass Squirrels located around Marysville - like Boyertown Bears for those familiar

Black Squirrel - a big deal in Marysville for over 100 years!

Cindy and "Black Squirrel"

Squirrels and free camping aside, our main reason for this particular town was to visit the Pony Express Station. Located just a block or so away from the park stands an original Pony Express Station built specifically for them in the late 1850's. It is a nice museum with many local artifacts and some original Pony Express items as well. - stop by if you are in the area.

original location and building 1850's Pony Express Station

After a Pizza Hut dinner (it was my birthday) and some grocery shopping at Walmart, we settled in for the  night. I took advantage of internet connectivity and streamed the last episode of Marvel's Agents of Shield season 6! Then sack time to rest for the next day.

We had been moving due West for several days and another 300 mile day stood before us. Again heading on US36, After several hours, we passed the geographic center of the continental US! Located near Lebanon, Kansas. There is a marker, but no easy RV parking, so we passed on by. In time we turned due North towards McCook, Nebraska (home of Valmet, makers of Valley Irrigation sprinkler systems - think Kreider Farms Manheim area folks, and parent company of one of my former employers Valcom/Inacom).

Here we turned West on US6 and drove to the small town of Enders. Our destination- Enders Reservoir Rec Area and again 50 amp hookups. It was still hot and sunny and AC would be greatly appreciated. this is a nice stay and being off season, there were only a couple of campers. As the sun set and the temps dropped, we took CJ for a walk and to see the lake. The next morning as we were pulling out and stopping to dump our tanks, I noticed water in the grey compartment, not a lot, but we'll have to keep and eye on it. The tank was quite full and it either sloshed out, or perhaps my jarring pullover at a rest stop worked a fitting loose. As we drove the short distance to rejoin  US 6, we saw the rest of the campground, with views of the lake! Next time.

these Sunflowers are seen through out Kansas and Nebraska

Cloud formation late in the day at Enders Res Rec Area

We rejoined US6 and continued westward for the remainder of the day to our next stay

More later

take care - CJ

Back home and final thoughts

Back Home and final thoughts

we traveled to 37 states
Visited  27 national parks
26 state parks
historical sites
drove over 18000 miles in RV
drove over 18000 miles in Jeep
stayed at  70 sites
dry camped  46 nights
stayed at 8 WalMarts

map of our trip

things we observed

agencies are not consistent in their checking in, assigning passes
US National Forests are very nice campgrounds and quite affordable (recreation.gov)
all US National Parks are worth visiting
people everywhere are nice
this is a land of great beauty and ever changing landscapes
local food is great
planning is useful but be flexible
talking to fellow campers and locals is fun, interesting and informative
hidden gems sometimes are best
a check list for departure is necessary
keep daily drives to 300 miles or less if possible

take care Cooper and CJ

Minnesota, Wisconson, Michigan and Ohio

Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan and Ohio 

We had a fairly long drive to our next stop and there was no time to waste. Getting back on I 94 we passed through Fargo and shortly thereafter into Minnesota. We passed through small towns, past some of the numerous lakes the state is known for and arrived at suppertime at Big Sandy Lake Recreation Area. This stop for the night was another Army Corps of Engineers project near the headwaters of the Mississippi River! Again a very nice place to hang out. Built on a site that at one time in the 1700's saw a fur trading post and native American tragedy.

site 2 - Big Sandy Recreation Area Minnesota

water heading for the beginning of the Mississippi!!

CJ enjoying the drive

Again we had a short stay, pulling in at supper time and we were on the road again shortly after 7AM the next day. We needed to cross Wisconsin and get to Bay Furnace National Forest Campground by the next night. To do so, we had 370 miles to get in. A fair drive in a car, but pushing the limits for a motorhome. We try to keep our daily drives to 300 miles or less and this was our last drive to exceed that limit.

crossing into Wisconsin at Duluth

Bay Furnace is a great place. Yes, it is dry camping, but you are right on the shores of Lake Superior at the site of a 1870's iron furnace with a beautiful beach and nice campsites. If you are lucky enough to book sites 8, 10 or 12, you'll be right along the water's edge. The small town of Munising is just 3 miles to the East. The Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore  is available for viewing by booking passage on the  tour boats. As we had seen the similar Flower Pots back in the Fall at Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia, we choose to pass on boating to see the rocks. If you are in the area, and have a hankering, they were extremely popular.

remains of the blast furnace at Bay Furnace 

On our way back to the campground from Munising, we did a quick stop to get some Pasties. There are places all over the Upper Peninsula advertising Pasties (had to stop in to check out what they are). Turns out they are pastry pockets filled with meat, veggies or pie filling. I chose the apple filling. It was very tasty.   Cindy tried her hand at the Casino and in a short time was separated from her $20!

Munising Lighthouse on Lake Superior

downtown Munising

Indian Casino across from Bay Furnace, Christmas MI

We had only planned on the one day to be in this area and by 8 AM the next day we were once again packing up. We stopped at the dump station, then filled the water tanks and headed East. We were heading for the center of Michigan on our homeward trek. Along the way we passed Lake Michigan, crossed the Mackinac Bridge and pulled into a KOA near Flint.

Mackinac Bridge - Lakes Huron to the left, Michigan to the right 

regional offering - Pasties - we tried apple!

Lake  Michigan shore

There was not to be any sight seeing this night and we settled in at camp, grabbed some WiFi and called it a day. The next morning we didn't have to rush, but we did need to get past Detroit and then Toledo before suppertime. Along the way, we had a near miss on US 25 when a trailer lost its' fender and we had no choice but to run over it!! We pulled over at the next gas station and closely examined the tires. NO DAMAGE!! This was not a place to have to pull over with its' narrow shoulders and heavy traffic.

Lake Erie at Oregon , Ohio

Welcome to Ohio -thanks!

We made it to our last State Park - Maumee Bay. Very nice, quite large with almost a country club feel. Not a wilderness feel, but well maintained and right on Lake Erie. I traveled to the library in nearby by Oregon to catch up on this blog ( three locations needed completion) and we went for walks and over to see Lake Eric. I have now seen all 5 Great Lakes!

We stayed two days at Maumee Bay and off towards PA!. On the way we stopped at Cuyahoga Valley National Park, just below Cleveland. Centered on the days of canals in the 1830's, CVNP is a nice stop for a few hours and if you are so inclined, bring your bike and cruise the tow path!

Canal Boats and biking paths - CVNP

one of the original canal locks - 175 yrs old

what a welcome - traffic jam 

  We had 75 more miles to go and hit Pennsylvania. We did that with no problem on I 80.
Then, the traffic jam hit. It took us 1.5 hrs to go 12 miles!! But we did, and by 5PM we were pulled into the Mercer KOA. Our last night on the road after 11 months!!

our last campsite - Mercer KOA

The next morning, Friday, We were up, coffeed and on the road by 8AM and after some rainy spots on I 80 and 322, we arrived back home shortly after 2PM!!! Some of the family were there to greet us and Cooper and CJ were glad to get their yard and house back.

Welcoming committee

Thanks so much for following and for those of you thinking about making a trip like this...ENJOY!!

There will be one more post to this blog, a listing of our stats, observations and opinions.

take care

Cooper and CJ