Ridgway, Colorado

Ridgway State Park - Ridgway Co

Leaving Mueller State Park we turned West on US 24, heading for US 50 and Montrose. Our route would take us through ranch country and up into the Rockies, eventually crossing over at 11000 ft at Monarch Pass. Winnie did the job , cresting at close to 40 mph! As this was a more direct climb as opposed to the severe switch backs we experienced last year when traversing Wolf Creek Pass, which we crawled over at 20 mph. We passed through Gunnison (where we went to a Rodeo last year) and an hour later arrived at Montrose. Here we swung South onto US 550,(rated as one of the most dangerous road in America, but more on that later) and a half an hour later we arrived at Ridgway State Park. We had stayed here last year on our big trip, but at the campground next to the river. This time, we had reserved a site up on the hill in Elk Ridge Campground. Our site, D87 would afford us a view of the lake and the San Juan Mountains! Ridgway SP is very nice and once again, Colorado has done a nice job in layout and maintenance.  Water is shared so you fill your tank then get to your site and power is 30 amp. This meets our basic needs. There is a very nice bathhouse and laundry facility located in the center of the campground. A coin changer is available for the showers and laundry.

after a long drive it's good to relax

downtown Ridgway - Park on immediate left

 Our first day in camp, we checked out additional sites, as we wanted to extend our stay and we decided on 137 in E Loop (more on that later). After setting up and leveling the rig, CJ got his first of many walks around the loop. Then we hopped in the Jeep and proceeded down into town to look around and do some grocery shopping. Ridgway is a quaint small town, widely know as the location used in many scenes for "True Grit" the 1969 John Wayne classic. Last time here, we did the town tour, this time, we planned on driving to the shootout meadow and farm locations. But, for now, we were very much content to just sit and look out on the mountains while reading.

The next morning, CJ and I took the  scenic loop hike and combined it with the Wapiti Trail hike.This took us down to the Ranger Station, where Cindy and Jeep were waiting. The ranger printed off the vehicle passes (one for each day) and we took a look around at the various taxidermy exhibits. Then back up to camp and more chillin'. We have modified our itinerary, removing a 500 mile swing into NE Arizona. In doing so, we had a full week to just hang here. This is a beautiful place and we plan of taking advantage of the surroundings.

BLOGGING takes time!

Monday was set aside to visit the Library to update and post the BLOG and that worked well. It took most of the afternoon as the process of retrieving the pictures and formatting them is a bit clumsy (at least for me).

With that completed, we were ready to begin exploring more of the area. Our last neighbors at RMNP told us to be sure to checkout Last Dollar Road. This 20 mile dirt road is SW of town on Rt 62 and takes you up through large stands of old growth Aspen and Pine and past the Farm used in the opening and closing scenes of "True Grit". The drive does require some ground clearence, and sturdy tires, and Jeep was in 4X4 to mitigate the washboard road surface. The Aspen were coming out nicely, and have and almost golden glow to them. Cindy took dozens of pictures, it will be difficult to weed them out! After driving back in several miles we came to the farm!

beginning of Last Dollar Rd, split rail fence goes for a long, long ways

Classic, typical Ranch Enterance

True Grit opening scene was shot here!

yes, we watched it while in Ridgway (you have to!)

Moving on, the road becomes narrower, steeper and rougher. Eventually you crest and begin a long steep descent towards Telluride. A great drive, giving Jeep a bit of a work out and us some unforgettable scenery.

no lack of vistas!

many large stands of Aspen on Last Dollar Rd

road does get a bit narrow at spots

Golden Aspen

twenty miles of views like this!

Grabbing a couple of slices of pizza at the Conoco station, we headed back to camp, an hours drive. Along the way, we pulled over and dropped the top on the Jeep. A great way to travel CO 145, through the canyon to SawPit and Placierville. Then up over the mountain and back to Ridgway and camp!

CO 145 heading North from Telluride towards Sawpit

The next day was to be a bit more involved. We could see Owl Creek Pass in the distance from our RV windows and the road leading there is well marked as you travel South into Ridgway on 550. Owl Creek Pass is not only a good foiliege route, it is also where the big Aspen lined Meadow is located beneath Chimney Rock. This is the scene of the big shootout near the end of "True Grit" (also the one campsite scene along the stream). The road starts off as a fairly civilized gravel road and remains that way for 2-3 miles. You pass several ranches and some upscale homes and then you start to climb. the road becomes more rutted, washboard like and narrower. The Jeep gets put in 4x4 to reduce the bouncing and on we climb. the landscape changes from brush to pine and Aspen and the grade becomes sharper (so do some of the turns). Large groves of Aspen are becoming golden yellow and the views become more impresive. After a little over 13 miles back in, we are over 9000 ft and there is the Meadow! For those who have seen the movie, it is instantly recognizable.

setting for shootout in True Grit

Duke camped here in True Grit

 We park get out and chat with some of the other folks checking it out. They point out the stream where the campsite is in the movie. We take some pictures and back in the Jeep to climb the last several hundred feet to Owl Creek Pass! over 10000 ft above sea level. We could take this another 20 miles or so over to Cimarron, but we have other plans for the day. The view here are well worth the drive and the road is not quite as severe as Last Dollar Road.

heading up US 550 towards Silverton -Aspen beginning to turn

US 550 between Ouray and Silverton

We descend into the valley and swing South when reaching US 550. The Million Dollar Highway. Considered one of the most dangerous roads in America. Passing through Ouray, we start our twisting climb, hanging on a shelf with a serious drop off for several miles as we climb towards Red Mountain. The aspen are numerous and probably about 30% at this time. The clear skies and light cloud cover add to the desire to capture as many images of the area as prudent. (thank goodness for digital photography!)  The Destination is Silverton, a late 1800's mining town, sitting at over 9000 ft and terminus of the Durango and Silverton Railroad. The D&S is a world famous steam train ride 40 miles up through the San Juan Mountains. There was one train sitting and puffing as we arrived, and another arrived within  minutes after we parked the Jeep. These 100 yr old locomotives each pull their vintage cars one round trip daily, allowing a 2 hr layover in Silverton so passengers can explore the town and get a bite to eat. We had visited here last year and returned to the same dog friendly pub - Bent Elbow. Cindy and I split a delicious burger and CJ had the fried egg (it was part of the burger). Then over to watch a third train arrive and a walk around Silverton. A one point , Silverton was a pretty rowdy mining town, with Brothels and Saloons making up a large part of the town. Today, it is a tourist destination, with many high end shops and eateries. ATV rentals are also to be had here as well, allowing visitors to explore the back country. CJ got some attention from the staff at Bent Elbow and several customers!

great Burger and Dog friendly - Bent Elbow!

right out of the Old West!

After our lunch and walk about, we climbed in the Jeep for the 45 minute return trip to camp. Many more photos ops presented themselves as we traveled to Ouray.

near Red Mountain on US 550

We have had several days to just relax and enjoy the beautiful Fall weather. Temps in the low to mid 70's and sunny are the norm ( Ridgway averages 243 sunny days annually). Several days we did not leave the State Park. Other days we go to the Library, check out shops in town ( the Café Ridgway a la mode has excellent ice cream!! I had the Bourbon Butterscotch twice - fantastic)

flecks of gold (aspen) heading to Camp Bird

One morning, after checking out on the web for things to go see, we decided on driving back the raod from Ouray to Camp Bird. Leaving US 550 just after the first switchback heading South, we entered the gravel road , pulled the Jeep into 4x4 and headed back the canyon, past Box Canyon Falls, towards Camp Bird - a former mining town. As with other trails, the going got rougher, the road steeper and narrower, but the scenery it afforded was beautiful. The total road is listed at about 6 miles. At 3.4 miles, we came upon the deal breaker. The road turned into a one lane wide, rock shelf with a blind turn! We've done some of these in the Moab on one way trails, but this is a two way trail!  I wasn't comfortable in going any farther. So..... backing the Jeep about 100 yds down the trail until there was a place to turn around was performed and we had a leisurly exit to Ouray and home!

80 acre Dennis Weaver Park - very nice!

2800 lb bronze eagle at center of DWP Medicine Wheel

Cindy tries out xylophone at Dennis Weaver Park

old RR bridge halfway between Dennis Weaver Park and town

One of the more well known residents of Ridgway was the actor Dennis Weaver - "McCloud" on TV or Chester on "Gunsmoke" for us even older folks. He lived in Ridgway for many years, right up to his death. The family dedicated a nature park next to 550 at the Northern approach to town along the Umcompahgre River. It offers several trails and a nice nature park, Dennis Weaver Memorial Park. Cindy and I place our stones at the Medicine Wheel and then CJ and I hikes the trail 1.5 miles into town. The trail takes you through a marsh and across an old RR bridge and brings you out at the town park right at the Library.

CJ has been getting 3-4 walks around the  camp ground loop daily, and Cindy and I have been consuming books while stopping to look at the San Juan Mountains from our campsite. A great way to enjoy the area.

As our stay at Ridgway State Park was coming to a close, we decided we would venture up to Montrose to was Jeep, buy some supplies at a larger grocery store and visit the Ute Museum. Located at the South end of Montrose on US 550, the Museum is first class and does a nice job of telling the story of the Ute, who inhabited the mountainous Rockies for thousands of years. There are artifacts, videos, a gift shop and examples of artwork displayed throughout the museum I would encourage everyone to taka an hour and a half to stop buy. The admission was heavily discounted by our AAA membership and Senior status. $7 got both of us in!

Ute Museum from Parking lot just of US 550

some of the many artifacts inside Ute Museum

decorated hide in Ute Museum

Cindy checks out a Tee Pee

We returned to this area because we enjoyed it so much last year and having seen the amount of Aspen that covers the mountain sides, we wanted to experience it in the Fall. We, Fall has now gotten here! We returned to Last Dollar Road a week after our initial visit, and it was magnificent. large patches of golden Aspen, some appearing as if they were electrically illuminated. If you get the chance, we highly recommend at late September, early October visit to the Rockies.

San Juan Mountains as seen from Ridgway State Park

As we packed up Wednesday morning, a fellow camper told us that they come the same week every year and that one year, there were 6 inches of snow at the campground! be prepared, the Rockies are well known for their unpredictable weather. After emptying our tanks and adding potable water, we exited our home for the last 12 days and headed South on CO 62 to Telluride and 145 to Cortez. At Cortez (only 5 miles or so from Mesa Verde NP) we swung Westward to eventually go due South on US491. The Journey from RSP to Delores, Co, was breathtaking. Some of the most vibrant and prolific yellows and occassional rusts and reds met us along the way! We took 140 pictures (no we won't bore you with all of them) but the beauty just continues mile after mile. And...mixed in with the Spruce and Pine, just wonderous to behold!

CO 145 South of Telluride

 tale care - CJ